Is Geisha Worth it?

Is Geisha Worth it?

Posted by Wen Yang on Jan 23rd 2021

Voca Coffee Notes - Geisha - 1

Right at the moment, I am sipping a cup of Geisha from the legendary Panama farm: Hacienda La Esmeralda, and writing this blog about Geisha coffee.

As the world’s most expensive and sought-after coffee, Geisha, it it really worth it? There is really no short answer. Please follow me for a tour of Geisha coffee and discover the answers along the way.

Geisha And History In A Glimpse

Geisha, also known as Gesha, is a heirloom variety of Arabica coffee, originated in Gesha Mountain area of Ethiopia.

(A painting of Gesha Mountain Area in Ethiopia - picture courtesy of the Internet) 

The first official record about Geisha can be dated back to 1936 in a letter by the British Consulate in Ethiopia. The Geisha seeds were transferred from Ethiopia to Kenya, then Tanzania; in 1950s, Geisha was introduced to Costa Rica; in 1960s, Geisha made its way to Panama. Nowadays Geisha or Gesha are cultivated in many Latin American countries including Guatemala, Colombia etc; and meanwhile, Gesha are also grown in its birth place, Ethiopia.

The Geisha beans are usually large and in long oval shape. The washed Geisha raw beans has the lustrous shade and texture similar to jade. Geisha plants have long and tender branches that need more care. Geisha does not yield as high has other Arabica varieties. Higher labor cost and lower yield do contribute to the cup price, but what really drove up the Geisha price was the fame, and of course, the cup quality.

Prices Soaring as Geisha Gaining Fame

What made Geisha the most renowned and sought-after coffee should trace back to year 2004, when a family farm named Hacienda La Esmeralda blew away the competition with its washed Geisha and won the first place in BOP (Best Of Panama) of the year. 

The particular Geisha lot was auctioned at record high $21 a pound. $21 may not be a big deal in today’s coffee market. But back then, prior to BOP 2004, the most expensive coffee was only traded around $4 a pound.

Best of Panama auction prices jacked up higher and higher over the years. In 2007, it cross 3 digits; in 2019, it went over 4 digits. The following chart illustrated the highest BOP auction price from year 2004 to year 2020. 

(Best of Panama coffee auction - the highest price $ per pound 2004 ~ 2020)

Among these BOP first place farms over the 17 years span, Hacienda La Esmeralda and Elida Estate of Lamastus family farms were the most frequent winners. Hacienda La Esmeralda has won 9 times and Elida Estate 3 times.

(Family of The Legendary Hacienda La Esmeralda - Photo courtesy of the Internet)

(Elida Estate stroke record high $1029/lb auction price at BOP 2019 - Photo courtesy of the Internet)

Beyond BOP auctions, the new wave Panama coffee farm, Ninety Plus, had further pushed the extreme to over $4000 for a pound of Geisha in year 2019. When it translates into brew price, it could be near $500 for a cup. You are not just drinking coffee, you are drinking gold.

Nevertheless, Geisha has made itself untouchably the most prestigious coffee in the world.

Best of Panama 2020 – Specialty Coffee Association of Panama

(Judge Cupping at Best of Panama - Photo courtesy of the Internet)

Does Geisha really taste so good? Do I have to pay such a high price? How to choose the right one? Stay tuned. I will continue to write about it next week.